Thoughts on ‘Steinar undir Steinahlíthum’
R.M.M. Crawford Finding a human settlement,
dead but not yet buried is comparable to discovering
an uninterred corpse. How did it come to be
here and how did it die? What drove people
to settle this place and why did they trail
‘out through the mist to try their luck elsewhere’?
The abandoned farms of Iceland are but the
tip of an historical iceberg. A mere thousand
years separate these denuded soils and mire-filled
basins from a land that once had forest to
the water's edge. The bogs of the North
Atlantic isles have within them endless "households
and fiefdoms laid down in the dirt." Buried
landscapes that testify to the hopes of Norse
settlers that set out from their sheltered
fjords over a thousand years ago, west over
the ocean to wrest a living on oceanic islands
from the Hebrides to Iceland. What did they
seek? Was it green pastures, where spring
came early and where in favoured places sheep
and cattle could winter outdoors? Or was it
the freedom of new-lands, where pioneers could
stake out holdings according to their needs.
They all must have shared hopes of a better
land as they migrated to the seemingly benign
bays and dales of the Atlantic seaboard.
All were successful for a time, especially
when herds of milking cattle could be over-wintered.
Making cheese and butter doubled the energy
and protein that meat alone provided from
a single beast. Populations grew, and
demanded meal which also could be grown, thanks
to the hardy bere-barley that flourished on
the hillsides despite the Atlantic storms.
Not that farming was easy. In the isles of
the North Atlantic the coming of spring was
always uncertain. Summers were doubtful, and
when Hekla erupted harvests failed for
years, all the way from Iceland to the Hebrides.
The warmth of the ocean that gave them their
winter pastures, also brought the rain that
washed their soils for twelve months in the
year, rendering them ever poorer in nutrients.
The forests that once clad the hillsides soon
vanished and with them the thin soils
eroded to deserts of stone and gravel. For
these farmers their endeavours, their "registries
of blood abandoned to the depths, time without
end, with all that might have been, could
they have stayed"
A people whose population has so often risen,
then plunged to the verge of extinction and
back, do not readily disappear. They may at
times " have trailed out through the mist
to try their luck elsewhere" but they still
survive. Their hardiness and tenacity to the
land with their farms, perched between the
mountains and the sea is an awe-inspiring
model of human resourcefulness and courage
in maintaining a light in the darkness of
the boreal night.
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